The one glaring omission in the mind-numbing debate about healthcare reform is this: hospital cafeterias are the best bargains in town.  I learned this lesson recently while visiting a relative during her convalescence at Mayo Hospital, in north Phoenix.  But my hospital dining experience stretches far and wide, having had many meals at Phoenix Children’s Hospital and Scottsdale Healthcare Shea.  Long gone are the days of horrid hospital fare.  In fact, hospital cafeterias are serving up respectable food at truly recession-friendly prices. 

Consider this: lunch with my father at the Mayo Hospital cafeteria, located just off the main atrium, cost a whopping $9.70 for both of us.  That included two large freshly-brewed iced teas, one bowl of tortilla soup, two patty melts and an order of onion rings.  I’m not suggesting that anyone raise the prices, but I find it curious that a hospital can bill my insurance company $75 for three Vicodin, yet charge 1970’s prices for the food.  And I bet they charge insurance companies a lot more money for the meals served to patients in their rooms, even thought it likely comes from the same kitchen. 

All things considered, the food is pretty good.  My onion rings may have come frozen from a bag, but they were freshly fried and I gladly waited the three minutes it took for them to be cooked.  They arrived hot and crispy, which is more than I can say for some “higher end” establishments. 

The patty melt was also a nice surprise.  The onions were nicely caramelized and sweet, and the rye bread was nicely toasted to a crisp.  I’m sure the cardiology department paid someone for this to be the featured sandwich, because nutritional information is posted for every item and I’m not proud of the fact that I ate a full day’s worth of fat and sodium in one patty melt.  Serving food like this must be good for business. 

On the other hand, healthier options were available.  There was a Seared Salmon with Lemon Caper Sauce and a salad bar that looked very fresh.  Other specials during the past month have included Pecan Crusted Trout, Grilled Chinese BBQ Salmon Salad, and Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Grilled Salmon.  Not one entrée is more than $5.25.  Though I haven’t tried it myself, I am a bit put-off by the name of one special: “Chicken Greek-a-Tikka.”  It sounds like a bad mash-up of a gyro and tikka masala, and the results can’t be good. 

It is worth noting that the cafeteria system at Mayo Hospital is a model of efficiency.  I would venture to say that the cafeteria employees are some of the lowest paid employees (or sub-contractors, whatever the case may be) in the hospital, yet they do their jobs efficiently and with smiles on their faces.  It makes me despise – even more – the surly service I sometimes get at expensive restaurants. 

If you are in North Phoenix, the Mayo Hospital is conveniently located just of the 101.  The food may not be as good La Grande Orange, but parking is plentiful, they don’t care if you take pictures of your food, and there is a refreshing absence of attitude.  

I cannot solve our country’s healthcare woes.  But if politicians, pundits and lobbyists want an example of what IS working in our healthcare system they could start by looking in their own cafeteria. 

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Mayo Hospital Cafeteria

5777 East Mayo Boulevard
Phoenix, AZ 85054
(800) 446-2279

Somewhere there hides a hidden Manifesto that contains the secret rites and rituals that one must know in order to legitimize his or her status as a Foodnik. (I hate the term “foodie.”)  No one knows the contents of this Foodnik Manifesto for certain, but it has been speculated that one must regularly attend farmers markets, possess his own sous-vide system and profess disdain for chain restaurants, among other things.  Foodnik Status is nearly impossible to maintain; there are many posers and very few individuals with true Foodnik Street Cred.  

Although the contents of that Manifesto are mostly speculation and gossip, one thing is known for sure: Tell someone that you like a restaurant owned by Fox Restaurant Concepts and you’re excommunicated for life.  Just take a sample of the responses I got when I wrote on Twitter that I really liked Culinary Dropout, Sam Fox’s latest venture.  “Wow,” “Unfollow”, “Oh God.”  I would have gotten a more favorable response if I had written that I was a homicidal lunatic with a penchant for bestiality. 

Okay, so I’m exaggerating a bit.  But I’m willing to expend a little bit of my own street cred, political capital, or whatever to declare that I really liked Culinary Dropout.  Let’s face it folks, anything would be a better use of that real estate than Pink Taco, the previous tenant, but the fact is that Culinary Dropout is a great addition to the South Scottsdale food scene and a nice addition to the Fox Restaurant Concepts line-up. 

To start, let’s talk about what Culinary Dropout is not.  It is not “destination dining.”  It is not a place for anti-establishment culinary school dropouts to show off their talents.  It is not particularly innovative, nor is it necessarily worth the 90 minute wait that some of my friends endured on a recent Saturday night. 

Culinary Dropout is a bar, plain and simple, albeit one with beautiful chandeliers and an extensive menu that goes well beyond traditional “bar food.”  If you go there with that expectation, I think you will be pleasantly surprised…without having to conceal your identity in the interest of preserving your Foodnik status.  

What goes better with a list of beers that runs 39 bottles deep, plus six on tap?  I’d say House Made Potato Chips with Homemade Onion Dip work quite well, with crunchy nearly-greaseless chips and a creamy, oniony dip that goes beyond what you would make at home.  And what’s better that Chips-n-Dip?  How about Pretzels?  And Cheese.  The Soft Pretzels and Provolone Fondue was great for noshing, although the cheese could have used a little bit more pungent kick than what’s offered by the provolone.  For non beer drinkers, there are 29 cocktails on the list as well as punch.  I love Punch! 

The a la carte Antipasti selection is also a nice way to eat, with a solid selection of cheeses, meats and snacks ranging in price from two to seven dollars. (Jamon Iberico was also available for $12.)  We tried several cheeses, cured olives and “12 Hour Roasted Tomatoes”, all of which were nicely portioned for our table of four.  

After two beers for me, and the abovementioned list of snacks, we really didn’t need any entrees.  But we were already settled into a cozy corner and didn’t feel THAT sorry for the hordes of people waiting up front for a table.  So we continued to eat.  The ladies shared a Turkey Pastrami sandwich which was served on a pretzel roll, and both proclaimed it delicious.  

I splurged and went for the Fried Chicken, and was pleasantly surprised.  A very crunchy leg, thigh and breast were served on top of mashed potatoes and accompanied by two biscuits.  The chicken was lightly drizzled with honey, and the crunchy sweet exterior concealed juicy and flavorful chicken meat.  Lo Lo’s does a great fried chicken, but only when it is freshly fried.  If it has been sitting around, you can do better elsewhere.  I would say that Culinary Dropout’s fried chicken is as good as Lo Lo’s when it’s fresh, but in a more “upscale” not-quite-soulfood manner. 

For dessert, I would suggest the Apple Monkey Bread with cinnamon sugar glaze and vanilla ice cream.  It was sweet and satisfying in the same way as the Pizzookie from Oregano’s, one of my all time favorite desserts.  Above, you see the Monkey Bread handsomely adorned by my friend Tim's omnipresent packet of Lactaid.

Service was polite, professional and we never felt rushed.  The staff seemed enthusiastic and well-trained and, despite it being a hangout for people with egos far bigger than mine, I never sensed any attitude or arrogance. 

There were lots of things on the menu that I still want to try.  Cold Smoked Salmon with Poached Egg, Braised Chicken Legs with Lardons, and Chicken Hash with Fried Egg and Black Truffles.  The Pork Belly Cubano also sounded good, as did Grilled Cheese Sliders. 

Whereas Fox dresses his Modern Steak staff in uniforms, the staff at Culinary Dropout exhibited their own personality.  I spotted a tall mohawk sticking out of the kitchen, and our polite server had an expansive collection of interesting body art which I struggled to interpret.  Authenticity can’t be bought or tattooed, but the amalgam of atmosphere, a varied menu, an interesting cast of characters and a great list of adult beverages make for a fun night out that needs no qualifiers. 

Simply, Culinary Dropout offers something for everyone, without sinking to the lowest-common-denominator.  Eating there may not automatically grant you Foodnik Status in the same was as does raising your own herd of free range goats and having backstage passes to the farmer’s market, but there is no shame in it either.

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Culinary Dropout

7135 East Camelback Road

Scottsdale, AZ 85251

480-970-1700

http://www.foxrc.com/culinary_dropout.html

A man cannot live on Noca alone.  Or Petite Maison.  Or BLT Steak.  As much as some of these favorites continue to “wow” me, I’ve felt lately that I have been in a rut.  Not a bad one, but I’ve definitely been in need of some new gastronomic inspiration. 

We tried Avalon.  I liked it a lot.  The room is contemporary and unexpected, the food was well prepared, but something about it left me uninspired.  

We returned to Modern Steak, after a woeful clusterfuck of a first visit.  The service was impeccable, the gorgeous room was bustling and the food was leaps-and-bounds above our first visit.  The Merus King Crab, poached in butter and black truffles was over-the-top and luxurious. But, again, I felt uninspired. 

So leave it to Tinderbox Kitchen, located just south of the train tracks in Flagstaff, to reignite my love of eating good food.  Simply put: Tinderbox Kitchen is so good, so comfortable, so charming and so unexpected that – for the first time in my life – I’ve had moments where I wished I lived in Flagstaff. 

After a full day of skiing at Snowbowl, my dad and I parked on top of a snowdrift and hobbled on sore legs into Tinderbox Kitchen.  The room is simple, yet inviting, with an interior design by Carol Minshew.  Tin ceiling painted black, simple photography, a small bar and a cozy-yet-comfortable dining room.  Smart touches are everywhere: metal candleholders on the table with “T” cut-out, cubes of fresh bread for noshing, and enthusiastic staff that clearly enjoy being here.  And I love that they have temporary tattoos with the “T” logo instead of matches.  Our server proudly wore hers on her forearm. 

Chef/Co-Owner Scott Heinonen has the kitchen firing on all cylinders, serving a menu with amazing depth for such a small place.  I counted no fewer than nine different starters, 11 entrees, and eight sides…not to mention a few specials thrown-in for good measure.  My dad and I started with the Dueling Smoked Fish: Cold Smoked Salmon vs. Hot Smoked Steelhead.  It was a delicious contrast in flavor and texture, my favorite being the hearty flavor of the steelhead, accented with the powerful kick of horseradish crème.  

We were eyeing the salad being shared by the couple at the table next to us, so we added a Simple Greens salad at the last minute.  It was proof that “simple” doesn’t have to be “boring.”  Cold, fresh greens were complimented by dried apricots, blue cheese and pistachios and, delightfully, NOT overdressed with a tart citrus vinaigrette. 

Dinner arrived a few minutes later, and I couldn’t wait to sink my teeth into the Duck Leg Confit, Rabbit Sausage, House-Cured Kraut and Fried Potatoes.  Few people do duck confit as well as Chris Curtiss at Noca, but Heinonen’s is a serious contender, with a crisp seared exterior providing the perfect foil for the tender meat inside the moulard leg.  The rabbit sausage, which I presume to be house-made (as is a nice array of other charcuterie, including rabbit terrine and pheasant pate), was juicy and flavorful.  I barely made a dent in the kraut since I was so full. 

My dad was cooing over his Slow Cooked Kurobuta Hog Jowls with Redeye Braise and Creamy Polenta.  It was the quintessential winter comfort food…hearty, rich and full of flavor and depth.  His plate was completely cleaned, saving the dishwasher considerable effort. 

There were so many other entrees that I wanted to try: Root Vegetable Pot Pie with White Truffle Oil, Crispy Turkey Cutlet, Pheasant Confit Ragout and Ancho-Glazed Meatloaf.  I can see myself racking-up some serious miles on my car in order to get my Tinderbox fix. 

Dessert was the knockout blow of the night: Apple Date Parfait with Bacon Crème Anglaise.  Pow!  Just like that I was lulled into a happy food coma….legs tired from skiing, belly warm and full of epicurean excellence, and comfort in knowing that happiness and inspiration are just a two hour drive from Phoenix.

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Tinderbox Kitchen

34 South San Francisco Street

Flagstaff, AZ 86001

928-226-8400

www.tinderboxkitchen.com

Twitter: tinderboxkitchn

So why am I talking about $250,000 sports cars as they pertain to Modern Steak, the much-hyped new venture from Fox Restaurant Concepts?  Modern Steak has the good looks, the sumptuous interior and all the pretty people but someone forgot the most important component: the food.  And, for that matter, the service left a lot to be desired as well. 

It all starts with the indifferent trio of hosts and hostesses at the front desk, all seemingly more concerned with their own vanity than greeting patrons.  Forgive me, but I’m sorry that I bothered you by showing up, and I had not realized that you landed the most important job in Scottsdale.  And if it is the most important job in Scottsdale, can’t you at least put a smile on your face? Would you love me more if I wore an Ed Hardy shirt? 

The room itself is truly breathtaking; white brocade ceilings, bathrooms that my wife raved about, a bustling bar, comfortable seats and a large exposed kitchen towards the back of the restaurant.  But our table, located near the kitchen, was repeatedly wafted by the strong smell of fish.  Yuck. 

We started with the Poached Wild Caught Shrimp as well as a Margherita Pizza.  We also ordered salads – a Romaine Salad with Caesar Vinaigrette for me, the Hot & Cold Wedge for my wife, and one of us had soup.  Considering that the Shrimp and Pizza were clearly ordered as “starters,” I was a bit confused when our soup and salads appeared first.  

Moments after sinking my teeth into an over-salted, over-dressed Caesar Salad (with shredded lettuce, no less), our appetizers arrived.  The onslaught was overwhelming, and very poorly timed.  Modern Steak has been around long enough to get these details right.  It’s not like Fox has never opened a restaurant before. 

The table could barely hold all the food and the server made a confused attempt at trying to find space for everything.  No one acknowledged the error in timing; they just put the food down and disappeared.  Although my wife loved her Hot & Cold Wedge salad, I thought the dressing tasted distinctly like barbecue sauce.  I’m glad she liked it but it’s not something I have any desire to try again.  The Poached Shrimp were tasty but otherwise unremarkable and the Margherita Pizza wasn’t even as good as the pizza served as Fox’s value-priced concept, Sauce. 

In my opinion, this wasn’t a very good start, and I was counting on the steak to salvage the evening.  After all, it’s called “Modern Steak,” right?  Obviously, the person ordering the meat went to the same school of indifference as the hostesses, because my 20 ounce Dry Aged Bone-In Rib Eye was a sad waste of a cow.  Kudos for the rich, dry-aged flavor that simply cannot be replicated by wet-aged beef.  And the fat around the perimeter had a great, marrow-like flavor.  But the rest of the steak was marred by an overabundance of strange connective tissue that was tough and chewy.  Getting to the meat required a surgeon’s deft touch at dissecting the connective gristle.  When you finally got there, it tasted good.  But I gave up two-thirds of the way through it.  I know that a rib eye is a fatty cut of meat, but this was downright weird. The onion relish served with it was nearly ice cold.  

I didn’t even want to take the bone home to gnaw-on the next morning, as I usually do with the extraordinary Cowboy Rib Eye at BLT Steak.  My experience wasn’t unique; our friends ordered the Filet and deemed it “okay” but not better than what they have had at Mastro’s, The Palm, or elsewhere. 

I recognize that, like most of you, I’m just a guy with an opinion.  But it would seem to me that you should order the best beef possible and perfect its preparation when you’re going to put the word “Steak” in the name of the restaurant and charge premium prices for the privilege of dining there.  No one ever came by to ask if our steaks were prepared correctly, but they were quick to sell us more cocktails when our glasses were empty. 

There were some positive elements to the food.  The Mascarpone Creamed Corn was delicious and my wife raved about her Maple Bacon Glazed Scottish Salmon.  (Maybe they should have called it “Modern Fish” instead?)  But the Sautéed Asparagus was limp and overcooked and the Yukon Gold Potato Puree, while flavorful, was barely emulsified with the Vermont Butter and on the verge of breaking completely. 

Dessert consisted of a Cupcake Sampler and a Key Lime Pie.  My wife enjoyed the cupcakes, but I thought that the frozen Key Lime Pie at Trader Joe’s is better than the one served at Modern Steak, albeit less pretty. 

As would be expected of a restaurant that is as much about the drinks as the food, the cocktails were well crafted and beautiful to look at.  The “Retail Therapy,” consisting of Vodka, Grand Marnier, Fresh Strawberry Puree, Basil and Lemon Juice was a work of art in a glass. 

Will Modern Steak succeed in spite of its culinary and operational ineptitude?  Although I am often quick to defend Scottsdale as something other than the shallow caricature that it is often portrayed, the fact remains that hoards of cougars, wannabes, and posers will still flock to Modern Steak.  Just take a look at Olive and Ivy across the street.  Despite my experience at Modern Steak, I'm generally a fan of Sam Fox's restaurants, although they tend to plateau quickly.  Greene House was awesome and is still a great spot for a business lunch.  North is where my wife and I had our first date, and Sauce is a consistently good value.  It's not that I'm anti-Fox; I'm just anti-bad.

I realize that Fox Restaurant Concepts is in the business of making money for itself and its investors.  And given how full the restaurant and bar were, I’d venture to say that they’ll be delivering a handsome return on their investment for a while.  But attention spans are notoriously short and the hype will subside and people who actually care about what they are eating, as opposed to where they are eating it, will go somewhere else.  

If you’re going to build a sports car, make it the best driving experience in the world.  If you’re going to write a book, make it one that the reader cannot put down.  And if you’re going to patronize a high-priced prostitute, it’s great if she’s beautiful but better if she knows her way around the bedroom. Good looks are nice, but you probably won’t remember her face.   

**An interesting sidenote to this review: I am quite certain that the management was on to the fact that I may be a "food blogger" as I heard one of the managers point out to another manager that I was taking pictures of the food.  I never advertise the fact that I am writing about a restaurant, but sometimes it's hard to conceal the flash from the camera.  Given that knowledge, don't you think they would have tried a little harder?

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Modern Steak

7014 E. Camelback Rd.
Suite 1433
Scottsdale AZ 85251
P: 480.423.7000

Shame on me for eating at FnB on its opening night.  Condemn me to hell for eating there on opening night with the secret intent to write about it here.  Clearly, I’m showing my amateur status.  I’ve never been to a restaurant on opening night and expected a litany of service hiccups and culinary fuckups.  It doesn’t matter that FnB is owned/managed by Pavle Milic, the charismatic consummate professional with a Rain Man-like knack for remembering names.  It doesn’t matter that the small kitchen is the domain of Charleen Badman, who has enough laurels that she could rest on them indefinitely if she wanted.  And it doesn’t matter that schmooze-mistress Marianne Belardi is working the room.  The fact is: it’s opening night.  Shit happens. 

Yet, remarkably, shit DIDN’T happen at FnB on opening night. 

Pavle Milic was in his element, tending to his new creation and keeping an eye on every move…quick to greet patrons as they entered.  His wife was there also, introducing herself and expediting food from the kitchen.  (Should we tell CPS that mom and dad were both working and the kids were locked in the walk-in freezer?!)  Chef Badman was calm and cool, working in concert with Sous Chef Sasha Levine.

The room isn’t dramatically different from its Sea Saw and Digestif incarnations, but it has warmth that was previously absent, as well as a tad bit more space.  The tile on the floor is spectacular, clearly a product of Milic’s perfectionism. The lighting is soft, and the space feels more “New York City neighborhood place” than “Scottsdale hipster hangout.”  That’s a good thing. 

And then there’s the food.  We are talking about a restaurant, right?  We started with Benton Farm’s Country Ham, Cheddar and Pickled Vegetables.  Simple, clean flavors.  Great to nosh on pre-meal.  We also had the Crispy Rock Shrimp & Jalapeno Tartar.  I love rock shrimp, and these flash-fried crustaceans were light, flavorful and completely lacking any trace of oil from the fryer.  The Jalapeno Tartar had a nice burn to it, which I loved. I wasn’t as crazy about the Sweet Squash Ravioli with Horseradish and Almonds, but I’ve already heard many raves about it.  Kudos to the Chef for the interesting pairing of horseradish with the ravioli; the combination worked well but I didn’t feel dazzled. 

The star of the starters was the Fried Green Tomatoes with Green Goddess Dressing and Feta.  Okay, so I’m a sucker for anything with “Green Goddess” on it but, the fact is, this was absolutely delicious.  The tomatoes were firm and bursting with tomato juiciness, and the dressing had a slightly tart flavor that played nicely with the saltiness of the feta cheese and the acidity of the green tomatoes.  Order this appetizer.

Between the four of us, we ordered every entrée on the menu.  I had the Braised Lamb Shank with Chickpeas, Couscous and Pickled Turnips.  The pickled turnips were an absolutely brilliant addition to this dish.  Their tartness cut some of the richness of the lamb shank and resulted in an absolutely perfect entrée.  The slightly Mediterranean flavor and preparation seemed a bit out of place on the menu and I almost hesitated ordering it, but the end result was truly spectacular and definitely one of the better lamb preparations I’ve had in recent memory.  

I can’t speak to the other entrees because I did not try them, but the Roast Jidori Chicken with Spaetzle, Wild Broccoli and New Garlic (as opposed to old?) was deemed very crispy yet still juicy and flavorful. 

My wife, who makes trout often at home, loved her Boneless Trout with Sunchokes, Caramelized Onions and Dill…and the portion was gargantuan.  The Flatiron Steak with Radish Salsa Verde and Fingerling Potatoes was deemed very good and I noticed many of them leaving the kitchen.  My only critique: offer more bread with the entrees, because the sauces would be great for sopping up with some good, crusty bread.

We skipped dessert and headed over to The Sugar Bowl.  Granted, I’m not much of a dessert guy but nothing excited us enough to stay for dessert and, besides, it was nice to get outside and enjoy the cool evening.

FnB has amazing promise.  Like Noca, it can be a destination meal, or a great place to nosh at the counter and have a drink.  There were several little touches that I liked: the selection of magazines and newspapers at the entrance, making it inviting to solo diners and giving it a “neighborhood” feel.  Orders were taken by hand, on paper.  While seemingly insignificant, it says to me that they care about getting your order right and, besides, there is a certain quaintness about it. 

FnB is an enchanting concept: homey, comfortable, warm…with a little something for everyone.  I would expect that the small menu will expand a bit as the kitchen and servers get into a groove but I sure like the idea of a lean-and-mean operation with a focus on quality food and sincere hospitality.

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FnB

7133 E. Stetson Drive

Scottsdale, AZ 85251

480-425-WINE (9463)

But, from what I’m told, dinner is the real star at Tinderbox.  With an emphasis on “American Comfort Food” done to a very high standard, I see many parallels with what’s also going on at Noca, another one of my favorites.  It’s not “complicated food” but, rather, simple food prepared to a high standard using excellent ingredients.  Although I haven’t yet been for dinner (will definitely visit soon, and it sounds like it’s worth the drive), I’d venture to say that Tinderbox Kitchen sets a very high standard not just for Flagstaff, which has far fewer “higher end” dining options, but for any major city. 

The interior is chic yet comfortable, with blacked-out tin ceilings and simple photography on the walls.  It was quiet at lunch, but I’m sure it’s got a great vibe at night, especially on a cold Flagstaff night. 

The menu changes regularly, but I’ve published a recent menu below.  Jalapeno Mac-n-Cheese with Duck Confit?  Yes, please.  House-made charcuterie?  Yes, please.  Winter Vegetable Pot Pie with White Truffle Oil?  Bring it on, now. 

Tinderbox has been open for six months now and, based on the reviews thus far, it has been a big success.  Quite honestly, I’ve never found much reason to visit Flagstaff.  The last time I was there we went skiing and my dad had to be taken by Ski Patrol down the mountain on a sled as a result of altitude sickness.  The time before that was for band camp at NAU…an experience I’d rather forget.  (My roommate routinely challenged me to a “dance off.”  My wife can attest to the fact that dancing is not something I do.)  

Thanks to Tinderbox Kitchen, I now have a reason to return to Flagstaff without the fear of a band camp dance-off.

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Tinderbox Kitchen

34 South San Francisco St.
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
Phone: 928.226.8400

www.tinderboxkitchen.com

twitter: tinderboxkitchn (there is no "e" in "kitchen")

I recognize that dining out is a luxury and one of the first things to be cut from shrinking household budgets.  Bar Bites is a great way to experience the excitement and creativity of Chris Curtiss' cooking at a lower price-point and this Thursday should be be very interesting with Chef Curtiss and Chef Pool joining forces.  An image of the menu is below, but you can go to this link to see the full sized image.

For all you haters out there, no, I'm not on the payroll at Noca.  I am a regular customer there because they've never done me wrong.  There are, however, other restaurants that are the objects of my affection.  I'm a huge fan of Petite Maison, Tortas El Guero, Posh, Andreoli Italian Grocer, and Pars Persian Cuisine.  If you're in Flagstaff, I suggest you check out Tinderbox Kitchen.  I was there for lunch recently, and really excited with what I saw.  I can't wait to try it for dinner.

If you have any restaurants that you think I should try, please feel free to leave a comment below.  Thanks for reading!

I highly doubt that the majority of dinner customers are going to order the highest priced steak on the menu.  The best steak I ever ate at a restaurant was at Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, and it didn’t even come close to costing $70.  It wasn’t a la carte, and it came with salad, soup, vegetable and a potato.  Expensive, but a great value.  A close second is the Cowboy Ribeye at BLT Steak which was expensive, but not $70. (Edit: a subsequent visit to BLT Steak confirms that their Cowboy Ribeye, at $55, is the best steak I've ever had!)

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Almost without exception, I can cook a better steak on my grill at home than I can get at any restaurant at any price.  Prepared well, a good steak from Costco or AJ’s will never disappoint.

For those who like to criticize, let’s face the facts:

- If there wasn’t a market for expensive food (or cars, or houses…) then everyone would be eating Top Ramen from the seat of an economy car.  There is a time and a place for indulgence; the definition of “indulgence” is different for everyone. 

- Don’t bet against Sam Fox.  Despite the fact that this market is saturated with high-end steak restaurants, there is room for one more if the food, service and atmosphere surpass the customer’s expectations.  Sam doesn’t have many “misses” on his record.  I think the food is awful at Olive & Ivy, but he has turned it into more of a “scene” than a restaurant and it’s packed at night.  A foodnik destination? No.  But it’s successful. 

- Why fault someone for taking a risk?  The construction of Modern Steak created local jobs.  The restaurant is not a national chain (like Ruth’s Chris, Morton’s, etc); it is locally owned and helps our struggling economy.  The economy won’t turn around until people DO SOMETHING and spend money, and Sam Fox has certainly done that.  Simply put: if you don’t like it, place your vote by not patronizing it.  

-Despite a dire need, Westcor was NOT going to use the space occupied by Modern Steak as a homeless shelter. 

I’ll give Modern Steak a try once they have had some time to work out the kinks.  It’s unlikely that I’ll order a $78 steak, and I’ll be sure to report back here when I’m done.

Binkley’s is back.  Actually, it never really left, but I took it off our “fine dining” rotation after a painfully dysfunctional meal there on New Year’s Eve 2008.  Reviewed here, that meal missed the mark on everything that makes Binkley’s Restaurant so special to me.  The food was overwrought, service was lackluster and arrogant, and the pacing was off.  Descriptions of each course were pre-packaged and rushed, when present at all.  Our table in the back room made us feel forgotten.  I felt as if I had lost an old friend.  Had Binkley’s success gone to its head, or was it just an “off night?” 

Granted, New Year’s Eve is not the best night to judge a restaurant.  So, for the occasion of my wife’s recent birthday, we decided to give it another shot.  In my mind, I had already decided that we were never going back if the experience was anything like the one we had on New Year’s Eve.  The stakes were high.

So, when we were seated at our favorite table and greeted by a server named Rebecca who remembered us from visits many years past (long before I even knew what a “blog” was), I knew that New Year’s Eve would be just a fuzzy bad dream, soon to be forgotten altogether.  Simply put: our 5 Course Tasting Menu at Binkley’s Restaurant was a culinary tour de force, rivaling some of the best meals I have had anywhere at prices ten times more than what Kevin Binkley charges.  Excellence was everywhere.

There were no fewer than 15 amuses bouche.  Chilled Curried Pear Soup with Serrano Powder (so good that I contemplated snorting the powder), a Charcuterie Plate with Coppa, Honeydew Dippin’ Dots with Prosciutto, and Steak Tartare “Burgers” with Homemade Potato Bread.  The onslaught continued.  Puff Pastry with Balsamic Gel, Tomato Tartare, Micro Arugula and Mozzarella Sauce.  Duck Yolk with Bacon Powder.  A Foie Gras Noodle.  (No one does Foie better than Kevin Binkley…no one.)  All the molecular gastronomy buzzwords were there – “balm”, “gel,” “dust,” and other liquid nitrogen inspired creations.  Yet, contrary to our last visit, none of it felt gimmicky.  Flavors and textures were complimentary; form followed function.  My only complaint is that we were sometimes presented with so many amuses at the same time that we weren’t able to fully savor each one.  And it’s time to put the blinking coasters into retirement; they’re hokey and a tempting target for personal injury attorneys representing strobe-sensitive epileptics.

The Black Truffle Bantam Egg with Charred Sweet Onion, Turnip Latke and Truffle Jus (pictured above) was the epitome of indulgence; rich, complex, and unexpected.   It’s definitely one of the top ten things I’ve ever eaten. 

The Menage a Foie, comprised of a Puddin’ Pop, Terrine, and Cappuccino, showed off Chef Binkley’s deft touch with all things goose-liver.  My veal was less of a hit; the smoky flavor was too strong and seemed out-of-place.  But the accompanying sweetbread was a delicious nugget of glandular goodness.  I’m fairly sure that Kevin Binkley could make rocky mountain oysters appetizing to me. 

My Blue Warehou was a fish I had never tried before, but did so at the urging of our server.  She was right.  It was delicate and mild, working in concert with the lobster mushrooms, butter lettuce, and creamy orzo.  The subtle flavor of chives gave this dish extra dimension, and the orzo was a nice departure from risotto. 

I was recently interviewed about the opening of Modern Steak at Scottsdale Fashion Square, and the reporter asked me if I thought a “fine dining” restaurant could succeed in a shopping mall.  The first thing that came to my mind was Binkley’s, which serves some of the most sophisticated food in the Southwest from a tiny space in a bland strip mall two doors down from a Cave Creek food bank.  That’s precisely what makes Binkley’s such a special place to me.  It’s a little bit unconventional.  The kitchen clearly has culinary chops that rival the best, but they would never make it in a corporate kitchen where they had to answer to somebody else.  This quiet anti-establishment undertone runs through every element of the dining experience at Binkley’s.  It’s akin to the well-dressed investment banker with tattoo sleeves hidden under his Saville Row suit; polished, but a little bit funky.

Not everything about the meal was perfect.  Bread was forgotten several times, although it was sublime once it finally arrived.  (Note to Kevin: PLEASE bring back Stu.  There must be a way that he can work for you while still pursuing his music career playing the spoons.  From a diner’s perspective, he is sorely missed.)  Like our last visit, there was simply too much food packed into too short a period of time.  We never felt rushed, but there were probably five amuses bouche too many, not that I could pick five to delete. 

Binkley’s Restaurant has a lot more competition that it did when it opened and I have noticed that it gets considerably less press than it used to.  Part of that is because the food has evolved into something that you probably aren’t going to want to eat every week.  It has become more esoteric, focusing on precision techniques, artful presentations, and impeccably sourced ingredients.   Kevin could make a lot more money if he appealed to a lower common denominator but, in refusing to do so, he has expanded the culinary boundaries of our city. 

It seems that my fears of Binkley’s demise really were just a bad dream.  If you are seeking the best of the best, let Kevin Binkley cook for you.  But, merely out of superstition, I’m still not going back for New Year’s Eve.

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Binkley's Restaurant

6920 E. Cave Creek Rd.

Cave Creek, AZ 85331

www.binkleysrestaurant.com

480-437-1072

It’s a classic case of East Meets West.  Jets versus Sharks.  Left Coast versus Right Coast.  Take two identical twins, separate them at birth, put one on the West Coast and one on the East Coast, and you’ll have two people with matching DNA but different personalities…products of their upbringing, values and environment.  Such is the case with the often-compared Five Guys and In-n-Out.  They’re really the same...but different.

Growing up in Arizona, my first encounter with and In-n-Out burger was when I visited my sister at college in California, at the age of 14.  The love affair, and associated weight-gain, hasn’t ended and has only been intensified by In-n-Out’s proliferation throughout the western and southwestern United States.  Now I can satisfy my craving down the street, instead of driving to California.  But this story is not about In-n-Out, it’s about Five Guys.  In-n-Out is merely the barometer against which I judge a “higher end” fast food hamburger.

I had been meaning to get to Five Guys for years, but never quite made it.  Started in Washington, D.C., it has expanded throughout the East Coast via an aggressive franchise operation.  Visiting my in-laws in New Jersey, my wife and I paid homage to President Obama’s favorite burger at the Hackensack, NJ, location.  Beyond that, I’ll leave politics out of the discussion.  My experience with Five Guys is limited solely to the location in Hackensack; I have heard many times that the Five Guys “experience” varies significantly between locations and that quality is sometimes inconsistent. 

Bottom line: Five Guys makes a very good burger, but I don’t think it can be compared to In-n-Out.  They are two totally different animals. (no pun intended)  In my humble opinion, both burgers are very good.  The beef is well seasoned, the buns each have their respective virtues (Five Guys seems to have more potato flour), and the toppings are fresh.  Clearly, Five Guys offers a much greater variety of toppings, including jalapenos, barbeque sauce, A-1 Sauce and Hot Sauce.  Beyond that, they’re both comparable in terms of quality, presentation and taste…depending on your personal preference.  Each one is leaps and bounds above what you would get at the “other” fast food places, even if you factor-in the so-called “deluxe” burgers now offered at chains like McDonald’s.  (Did someone say “Anus Burger?”)  My wife, who doesn’t like In-n-Out, loved her burger at Five Guys.  I like them both. 

The differences are mainly about personality, and are representative of their respective geographies.  I love the “newness” of the Western United States.  But I also love the authenticity and history of the East Coast.  In-n-Out:  new, squeaky clean, efficient, clinical, polite - - almost to a fault.  Five Guys:  a bit worn, service is secondary, it’s solely about the food - - not the experience.  

The kid working at In-n-Out reads the Bible, is captain of the football team, and will end up in Law School.  The kid working at Five Guys reads Hustler, has a perfect GPA (in shop class) and can hack government websites.  Both have an important role in the world, and both will give you a great hamburger.