eric EATS OUT

Anyone that knows me reasonably well can attest to the fact that I am Ferrari-obsessed.  Sure, Ferraris are high-priced objects of conspicuous consumption, clad in a sexy design, sumptuous leather, and artful carbon fiber.  But what sets them apart from other poseur sports cars is what lies beneath: the engine.  Sure, they are beautiful cars, but they also deliver on the driving experience.  Wrap it in an ugly skin but leave the engine intact and you’ll still be grinning ear-to-ear when you park it.  I don’t have a Ferrari; a new one is way out of my league but, as a car enthusiast, it’s the pinnacle of automotive achievement. 

So why am I talking about $250,000 sports cars as they pertain to Modern Steak, the much-hyped new venture from Fox Restaurant Concepts?  Modern Steak has the good looks, the sumptuous interior and all the pretty people but someone forgot the most important component: the food.  And, for that matter, the service left a lot to be desired as well. 

It all starts with the indifferent trio of hosts and hostesses at the front desk, all seemingly more concerned with their own vanity than greeting patrons.  Forgive me, but I’m sorry that I bothered you by showing up, and I had not realized that you landed the most important job in Scottsdale.  And if it is the most important job in Scottsdale, can’t you at least put a smile on your face? Would you love me more if I wore an Ed Hardy shirt? 

The room itself is truly breathtaking; white brocade ceilings, bathrooms that my wife raved about, a bustling bar, comfortable seats and a large exposed kitchen towards the back of the restaurant.  But our table, located near the kitchen, was repeatedly wafted by the strong smell of fish.  Yuck. 

We started with the Poached Wild Caught Shrimp as well as a Margherita Pizza.  We also ordered salads – a Romaine Salad with Caesar Vinaigrette for me, the Hot & Cold Wedge for my wife, and one of us had soup.  Considering that the Shrimp and Pizza were clearly ordered as “starters,” I was a bit confused when our soup and salads appeared first.  

Moments after sinking my teeth into an over-salted, over-dressed Caesar Salad (with shredded lettuce, no less), our appetizers arrived.  The onslaught was overwhelming, and very poorly timed.  Modern Steak has been around long enough to get these details right.  It’s not like Fox has never opened a restaurant before. 

The table could barely hold all the food and the server made a confused attempt at trying to find space for everything.  No one acknowledged the error in timing; they just put the food down and disappeared.  Although my wife loved her Hot & Cold Wedge salad, I thought the dressing tasted distinctly like barbecue sauce.  I’m glad she liked it but it’s not something I have any desire to try again.  The Poached Shrimp were tasty but otherwise unremarkable and the Margherita Pizza wasn’t even as good as the pizza served as Fox’s value-priced concept, Sauce. 

In my opinion, this wasn’t a very good start, and I was counting on the steak to salvage the evening.  After all, it’s called “Modern Steak,” right?  Obviously, the person ordering the meat went to the same school of indifference as the hostesses, because my 20 ounce Dry Aged Bone-In Rib Eye was a sad waste of a cow.  Kudos for the rich, dry-aged flavor that simply cannot be replicated by wet-aged beef.  And the fat around the perimeter had a great, marrow-like flavor.  But the rest of the steak was marred by an overabundance of strange connective tissue that was tough and chewy.  Getting to the meat required a surgeon’s deft touch at dissecting the connective gristle.  When you finally got there, it tasted good.  But I gave up two-thirds of the way through it.  I know that a rib eye is a fatty cut of meat, but this was downright weird. The onion relish served with it was nearly ice cold.  

I didn’t even want to take the bone home to gnaw-on the next morning, as I usually do with the extraordinary Cowboy Rib Eye at BLT Steak.  My experience wasn’t unique; our friends ordered the Filet and deemed it “okay” but not better than what they have had at Mastro’s, The Palm, or elsewhere. 

I recognize that, like most of you, I’m just a guy with an opinion.  But it would seem to me that you should order the best beef possible and perfect its preparation when you’re going to put the word “Steak” in the name of the restaurant and charge premium prices for the privilege of dining there.  No one ever came by to ask if our steaks were prepared correctly, but they were quick to sell us more cocktails when our glasses were empty. 

There were some positive elements to the food.  The Mascarpone Creamed Corn was delicious and my wife raved about her Maple Bacon Glazed Scottish Salmon.  (Maybe they should have called it “Modern Fish” instead?)  But the Sautéed Asparagus was limp and overcooked and the Yukon Gold Potato Puree, while flavorful, was barely emulsified with the Vermont Butter and on the verge of breaking completely. 

Dessert consisted of a Cupcake Sampler and a Key Lime Pie.  My wife enjoyed the cupcakes, but I thought that the frozen Key Lime Pie at Trader Joe’s is better than the one served at Modern Steak, albeit less pretty. 

As would be expected of a restaurant that is as much about the drinks as the food, the cocktails were well crafted and beautiful to look at.  The “Retail Therapy,” consisting of Vodka, Grand Marnier, Fresh Strawberry Puree, Basil and Lemon Juice was a work of art in a glass. 

Will Modern Steak succeed in spite of its culinary and operational ineptitude?  Although I am often quick to defend Scottsdale as something other than the shallow caricature that it is often portrayed, the fact remains that hoards of cougars, wannabes, and posers will still flock to Modern Steak.  Just take a look at Olive and Ivy across the street.  Despite my experience at Modern Steak, I'm generally a fan of Sam Fox's restaurants, although they tend to plateau quickly.  Greene House was awesome and is still a great spot for a business lunch.  North is where my wife and I had our first date, and Sauce is a consistently good value.  It's not that I'm anti-Fox; I'm just anti-bad.

I realize that Fox Restaurant Concepts is in the business of making money for itself and its investors.  And given how full the restaurant and bar were, I’d venture to say that they’ll be delivering a handsome return on their investment for a while.  But attention spans are notoriously short and the hype will subside and people who actually care about what they are eating, as opposed to where they are eating it, will go somewhere else.  

If you’re going to build a sports car, make it the best driving experience in the world.  If you’re going to write a book, make it one that the reader cannot put down.  And if you’re going to patronize a high-priced prostitute, it’s great if she’s beautiful but better if she knows her way around the bedroom. Good looks are nice, but you probably won’t remember her face.   

**An interesting sidenote to this review: I am quite certain that the management was on to the fact that I may be a "food blogger" as I heard one of the managers point out to another manager that I was taking pictures of the food.  I never advertise the fact that I am writing about a restaurant, but sometimes it's hard to conceal the flash from the camera.  Given that knowledge, don't you think they would have tried a little harder?

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Modern Steak

7014 E. Camelback Rd.
Suite 1433
Scottsdale AZ 85251
P: 480.423.7000

Shame on me for eating at FnB on its opening night.  Condemn me to hell for eating there on opening night with the secret intent to write about it here.  Clearly, I’m showing my amateur status.  I’ve never been to a restaurant on opening night and expected a litany of service hiccups and culinary fuckups.  It doesn’t matter that FnB is owned/managed by Pavle Milic, the charismatic consummate professional with a Rain Man-like knack for remembering names.  It doesn’t matter that the small kitchen is the domain of Charleen Badman, who has enough laurels that she could rest on them indefinitely if she wanted.  And it doesn’t matter that schmooze-mistress Marianne Belardi is working the room.  The fact is: it’s opening night.  Shit happens. 

Yet, remarkably, shit DIDN’T happen at FnB on opening night. 

Pavle Milic was in his element, tending to his new creation and keeping an eye on every move…quick to greet patrons as they entered.  His wife was there also, introducing herself and expediting food from the kitchen.  (Should we tell CPS that mom and dad were both working and the kids were locked in the walk-in freezer?!)  Chef Badman was calm and cool, working in concert with Sous Chef Sasha Levine.

The room isn’t dramatically different from its Sea Saw and Digestif incarnations, but it has warmth that was previously absent, as well as a tad bit more space.  The tile on the floor is spectacular, clearly a product of Milic’s perfectionism. The lighting is soft, and the space feels more “New York City neighborhood place” than “Scottsdale hipster hangout.”  That’s a good thing. 

And then there’s the food.  We are talking about a restaurant, right?  We started with Benton Farm’s Country Ham, Cheddar and Pickled Vegetables.  Simple, clean flavors.  Great to nosh on pre-meal.  We also had the Crispy Rock Shrimp & Jalapeno Tartar.  I love rock shrimp, and these flash-fried crustaceans were light, flavorful and completely lacking any trace of oil from the fryer.  The Jalapeno Tartar had a nice burn to it, which I loved. I wasn’t as crazy about the Sweet Squash Ravioli with Horseradish and Almonds, but I’ve already heard many raves about it.  Kudos to the Chef for the interesting pairing of horseradish with the ravioli; the combination worked well but I didn’t feel dazzled. 

The star of the starters was the Fried Green Tomatoes with Green Goddess Dressing and Feta.  Okay, so I’m a sucker for anything with “Green Goddess” on it but, the fact is, this was absolutely delicious.  The tomatoes were firm and bursting with tomato juiciness, and the dressing had a slightly tart flavor that played nicely with the saltiness of the feta cheese and the acidity of the green tomatoes.  Order this appetizer.

Between the four of us, we ordered every entrée on the menu.  I had the Braised Lamb Shank with Chickpeas, Couscous and Pickled Turnips.  The pickled turnips were an absolutely brilliant addition to this dish.  Their tartness cut some of the richness of the lamb shank and resulted in an absolutely perfect entrée.  The slightly Mediterranean flavor and preparation seemed a bit out of place on the menu and I almost hesitated ordering it, but the end result was truly spectacular and definitely one of the better lamb preparations I’ve had in recent memory.  

I can’t speak to the other entrees because I did not try them, but the Roast Jidori Chicken with Spaetzle, Wild Broccoli and New Garlic (as opposed to old?) was deemed very crispy yet still juicy and flavorful. 

My wife, who makes trout often at home, loved her Boneless Trout with Sunchokes, Caramelized Onions and Dill…and the portion was gargantuan.  The Flatiron Steak with Radish Salsa Verde and Fingerling Potatoes was deemed very good and I noticed many of them leaving the kitchen.  My only critique: offer more bread with the entrees, because the sauces would be great for sopping up with some good, crusty bread.

We skipped dessert and headed over to The Sugar Bowl.  Granted, I’m not much of a dessert guy but nothing excited us enough to stay for dessert and, besides, it was nice to get outside and enjoy the cool evening.

FnB has amazing promise.  Like Noca, it can be a destination meal, or a great place to nosh at the counter and have a drink.  There were several little touches that I liked: the selection of magazines and newspapers at the entrance, making it inviting to solo diners and giving it a “neighborhood” feel.  Orders were taken by hand, on paper.  While seemingly insignificant, it says to me that they care about getting your order right and, besides, there is a certain quaintness about it. 

FnB is an enchanting concept: homey, comfortable, warm…with a little something for everyone.  I would expect that the small menu will expand a bit as the kitchen and servers get into a groove but I sure like the idea of a lean-and-mean operation with a focus on quality food and sincere hospitality.

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FnB

7133 E. Stetson Drive

Scottsdale, AZ 85251

480-425-WINE (9463)

I can’t remember the last time I was as excited about a new restaurant as Tinderbox Kitchen.  Located in Flagstaff, it’s the kind of place I would absolutely love to have somewhere close to my house.  We visited for lunch, and started with a luscious bowl of Butternut Squash Soup and a Trio of Cheeses complimented with a perfect chutney.  Mains consisted of a Steak Sandwich with Blue Cheese, and a Meatloaf Sandwich.  Best. Meatloaf. EVER!  Crispy on the outside, very smooth consistency inside.  Service was friendly and genuine. 

But, from what I’m told, dinner is the real star at Tinderbox.  With an emphasis on “American Comfort Food” done to a very high standard, I see many parallels with what’s also going on at Noca, another one of my favorites.  It’s not “complicated food” but, rather, simple food prepared to a high standard using excellent ingredients.  Although I haven’t yet been for dinner (will definitely visit soon, and it sounds like it’s worth the drive), I’d venture to say that Tinderbox Kitchen sets a very high standard not just for Flagstaff, which has far fewer “higher end” dining options, but for any major city. 

The interior is chic yet comfortable, with blacked-out tin ceilings and simple photography on the walls.  It was quiet at lunch, but I’m sure it’s got a great vibe at night, especially on a cold Flagstaff night. 

The menu changes regularly, but I’ve published a recent menu below.  Jalapeno Mac-n-Cheese with Duck Confit?  Yes, please.  House-made charcuterie?  Yes, please.  Winter Vegetable Pot Pie with White Truffle Oil?  Bring it on, now. 

Tinderbox has been open for six months now and, based on the reviews thus far, it has been a big success.  Quite honestly, I’ve never found much reason to visit Flagstaff.  The last time I was there we went skiing and my dad had to be taken by Ski Patrol down the mountain on a sled as a result of altitude sickness.  The time before that was for band camp at NAU…an experience I’d rather forget.  (My roommate routinely challenged me to a “dance off.”  My wife can attest to the fact that dancing is not something I do.)  

Thanks to Tinderbox Kitchen, I now have a reason to return to Flagstaff without the fear of a band camp dance-off.

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Tinderbox Kitchen

34 South San Francisco St.
Flagstaff, AZ 86001
Phone: 928.226.8400

www.tinderboxkitchen.com

twitter: tinderboxkitchn (there is no "e" in "kitchen")

I'd like to offer a sincere "thank you" to the overly kind folks at The New Times for the nice mention of my blog in today's Chow Bella.  It was totally unwarranted, but very much appreciated.  The article mentioned my review of Noca's "Bar Bites" and I thought it would be a good time to also mention the upcoming Bar Bites featuring Matt Pool from Matt's Big Breakfast as a guest chef.  Call him CHEF Pool...I heard he hates that! 

I recognize that dining out is a luxury and one of the first things to be cut from shrinking household budgets.  Bar Bites is a great way to experience the excitement and creativity of Chris Curtiss' cooking at a lower price-point and this Thursday should be be very interesting with Chef Curtiss and Chef Pool joining forces.  An image of the menu is below, but you can go to this link to see the full sized image.

For all you haters out there, no, I'm not on the payroll at Noca.  I am a regular customer there because they've never done me wrong.  There are, however, other restaurants that are the objects of my affection.  I'm a huge fan of Petite Maison, Tortas El Guero, Posh, Andreoli Italian Grocer, and Pars Persian Cuisine.  If you're in Flagstaff, I suggest you check out Tinderbox Kitchen.  I was there for lunch recently, and really excited with what I saw.  I can't wait to try it for dinner.

If you have any restaurants that you think I should try, please feel free to leave a comment below.  Thanks for reading!

Allow me to set the record straight: I don’t go around recklessly spending $70 (or more…) on steaks.  Everyone is watching their spending these days, and I’m no exception.  But I will give Sam Fox credit for having the guts to launch such a lofty endeavor like Modern Steak. 

I highly doubt that the majority of dinner customers are going to order the highest priced steak on the menu.  The best steak I ever ate at a restaurant was at Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, and it didn’t even come close to costing $70.  It wasn’t a la carte, and it came with salad, soup, vegetable and a potato.  Expensive, but a great value.  A close second is the Cowboy Ribeye at BLT Steak which was expensive, but not $70. (Edit: a subsequent visit to BLT Steak confirms that their Cowboy Ribeye, at $55, is the best steak I've ever had!)

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Almost without exception, I can cook a better steak on my grill at home than I can get at any restaurant at any price.  Prepared well, a good steak from Costco or AJ’s will never disappoint.

For those who like to criticize, let’s face the facts:

- If there wasn’t a market for expensive food (or cars, or houses…) then everyone would be eating Top Ramen from the seat of an economy car.  There is a time and a place for indulgence; the definition of “indulgence” is different for everyone. 

- Don’t bet against Sam Fox.  Despite the fact that this market is saturated with high-end steak restaurants, there is room for one more if the food, service and atmosphere surpass the customer’s expectations.  Sam doesn’t have many “misses” on his record.  I think the food is awful at Olive & Ivy, but he has turned it into more of a “scene” than a restaurant and it’s packed at night.  A foodnik destination? No.  But it’s successful. 

- Why fault someone for taking a risk?  The construction of Modern Steak created local jobs.  The restaurant is not a national chain (like Ruth’s Chris, Morton’s, etc); it is locally owned and helps our struggling economy.  The economy won’t turn around until people DO SOMETHING and spend money, and Sam Fox has certainly done that.  Simply put: if you don’t like it, place your vote by not patronizing it.  

-Despite a dire need, Westcor was NOT going to use the space occupied by Modern Steak as a homeless shelter. 

I’ll give Modern Steak a try once they have had some time to work out the kinks.  It’s unlikely that I’ll order a $78 steak, and I’ll be sure to report back here when I’m done.